Get Ready for Action

Louis Vuitton has sailed into a sea of ​​sportswear - as a way to travel with menswear heritage brand to connect again. The numerical wave of the sea in the background and practices were still elevated and clothing, says the designer Kim Jones backstage, a tribute to the outgoing CEO Carcelle Vuitton. He left Paris for Newport, Rhode Iceland, and the America's Cup, which was part of the universe Vuitton. Whatever the origins of light parkas, bathing rationalization, check Damier bags in a navy blue touch and huge backpacks with detachable leather purses, has given this collection a new meaning of the word "Wanderlust". Objects of desire all the accessories available, which was not out bling. Even with a picture as a tattoo print T-shirt or a pair of neon belts, Mr. Jones has managed to produce luxury as deep as the ocean floor. Drag a veil Jolly turned out to be knitted from shredded cotton shirts, which had a wetsuit top half of Kashmir. And denim quilts were created with an old Japanese technique. "Digital and crafts," said Mr. Jones, who may add the two poles of a season in 2013, that it helps to define is. Raf Simons went to the roots of its signature brand in a different way: is his debut at Christian Dior Couture on Monday, seemed to the designers want to prove - through its website in a gallery exhibition of downtown fainting at the Bastille and the boys his history of fashion back in the beginning - that was haute couture are also not change the condition of his men. Mr. Simons has the Boy shorts look who is now an unstoppable trend invented. They were in this powerful and entertaining collection, which looked at the time than boys in the streets of the Belgian designer found, first in the 1990s, exuding sexuality and teenage angst marched schoolboy plentiful. It would have been easy to write to Mr. Simon's immersion in the women sewing soft furnishings that have secretly slipped in. But, said the designer, he thought back to the grunge years, but on a dress was part of a mix of clothes fan of music. A floral was assembled in a single coat, a slight scent of Comme des Garcons. The show was subtly on the basis of the seam, with fine details on the shirts as patches of fabric or embroidery. Light peach, orange and pink colors adds another hint of a sexual fusion of male and female. Mr. Simon has his own perspective on the world of people and this show was strong, beautiful and clean. In some seasons in Paris, the Asian-American designer Philip Lim has raised his game to show the opening of the 3.1 Philip Lim with a pulse energy. "Ready for Action," said the designer, picked up in a neat summary of the modern men's fashion with martial arts as a foundation, Mr. Lim elegantly over the most important trends. High white square baggy, low step knit shorts, injected dye ink, and reflects the gilding. Lists do not meet the eye in order to facilitate the designer to get everything together in a strong and vibrant. Rick Owens works at their own pace - and tapped into a new light on coats, jackets and dresses gauzy monastic. They would have organza or nylon, but somehow they looked classy. Powerful, were also prints - another important trend in the summer - here with a 3-D effect used box rafters. This beautiful sight was important for another reason: his hooves and wool socks. What? No sneakers, which are the staple footwear of the season? Viktor & Rolf have compiled a collection of scenes, designed on the racetrack, it meant that stitching in shades of sand alone, elegant, spiced with a silver tie and sneakers "spiritual elegance." Or creates an iridescent effect with Indian embroidery mirror that was far from the 1970s hippie fashion track. The design duo Viktor and Rolf Snoeren Horsting worked herringbone pattern in the geometry of the track season always present, so apathetic Chevron characterizes a new life. The spirit of Issey Miyake was in tissue paper, inventive, biker jackets and bold Japanese tie-dye stains to show the brand. And the designer was there to greet and meet good friends - via Skype. Design guru Jean-Paul Goude was just talking to an admirer of long-term digital Mr. Miyake, who had worked with his laboratory at the fashion collection of men's clothing. The result was a new energy when the bike models in the showroom. Miyake was the style occurs in geometry, cut square shapes, fat and fatty tissue in the inventions. Jean Paul Gaultier has risen to every activity you could do on the deck of a ship. Its marine theme park was not established that the life of fashion on the ocean wave, but as a calm presentation - or give out a travel theme, the bearded and turbaned Indians and has French embraced Toile de Jouy with drawings miniature remote tribes. The ability to work that goes into the men see wearing Gaultier was the key: the effects of tattoo embroidery in a white shirt on a white or cut low crotch pants waist a pleated satin evening refined. Missing was the sassy, ​​smart way Mr. Gaultier could have shaken the sailor hornpipe on the stage. But will carry his men will be broadcast live in high fashion next week. Thierry Mugler Fashion by Lady Gaga was modeling on the runway revived. But now the brand, like Mugler, the imagination is developed with the Super-stylist Nicola Formichetti and, for men's wear, designer Roman Kremer. The emphasis on the seam, cut slices to show the flesh, an interesting introduction, but ideas like shorts with a flap thigh was looking difficult. But the future of Mugler seems more positive than when it was launched. A designer Christian Lacroix Sacha Walckhoff dutifully continues to rotate collections pleasant, with a print on a T-shirt or a pattern on a layer to give a small suggestion of the founder of the imagination. But as the summer of 2013 was the inspiration of Rio, it was difficult to say how it connected to the heritage of the brand.