Why creative directors rely more than ever

LONDON, UK - Despite the rise of social media, which has more power in the hands of the consumer, a senior at a major fashion brand framework recently told me that in this industry, "The creative director is God."

Although I do not agree with the idea of ​​omnipotent, omniscient, Creative Director, submitting observations from an ivory tower, one thing remains clear: consistent despite the digitization and democratization, the fashion industry, with a strong creative director at the helm of a brand perhaps more important than ever, highlighted by three bits of news in the fashion ether this week.

Monday, Mulberry confirmed it was set by Emma Hill, creative director of the brand, with Stuart Vevers before you disconnect it, the Mulberry Fashion Show have helped with the-moment bags like Alexa and Del Rey. After the announcement, shares of Mulberry left more than 9 percent, closing at nearly 6 percent at the end of Monday and creeped even lower in the past two days.

The listed company suffered a significant loss in market capitalization after the surprise announcement suggests that analysts in the City and Wall Street to realize that the fashion business is doomed without a clear creative vision for failure.

Insiders say that Hill differences on the creative and business strategy with the management Mulberry, industry was the talk of a breakdown in the relationship between the creative and business sides of the brand. It is a model that I've seen time and again, especially when a brand is under financial pressure. Indeed, Mulberry shares in recent months that the company indicating two profit warnings that it was hard to get his fallen exhibited rapid growth upright.

But especially in difficult times like these, when the clear creative vision, the most and when business support and need their creations if the company can not make it through the tough times.

Unfortunately, many executives are the fashion - and I have spoken with many of them myself over the years - often a pullback overnight. Think of the revolving doors at Ungaro, Vionnet or or Chloe? Building a strong creative perspective takes time and discipline, and the changes do not come overnight.

Hopefully the leaders are at Hugo Boss give Jason Wu, the Taiwanese-American prodigy, time to make his mark, after the announcement this week that the designer will take the lead in the establishment of BOSS, primary Women of the enterprise ready-to-wear and accessories line. BOSS is the perfect example of a great global fashion brand that really pays much attention, because there is nothing new or interesting to say, especially in women's clothes, which consisted mainly in the shadow of the heart menswear fashion industry was nobody's business. With a show for New York Fashion Week next February and a young creative talents to give a boost BOSS now has a chance to get back on the radar of global fashion.

And then there are strong brands with strong track record that still creative renewal. Even with a proven creative talent as Reed Krakoff, who led the creative reinvention of the coach for 16 years, so it seems it is time for him to withdraw to and let someone else to bring new energy creative brand that also to expand into ready-to-wear. Perhaps it is not surprising (though a little far-fetched) that the name of Marc Jacobs for the role of coach has been proposed. According to industry speculation that has been swirling since the beginning of this year, may Jacobs on Louis Vuitton (space for allegedly Nicolas Ghesquière to make his highly anticipated next step) leave his contract to be renewed this year.

In an interesting, Jacobs and his business partner Robert Duffy again revealed last week that for the first time publicly called Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley in the top creative roles cheap Marc Jacobs by Marc Jacobs line, which is generally considered the most promising way for future Jacobs viewed the company growth. WWD went so far as to speculate that Duffy and Jacobs can try to follow in the footsteps of Michael Kors with the kind of blockbuster IPO financial investors had demanded the fastest growing fashion company in the world recognized follow.

The vast majority of operations by Marc Jacobs is currently owned by LVMH, if such an approach would be much more complicated than it may seem. But it is clear that Jacobs and Duffy to realize that with a creative director Marc by Marc figurehead was not enough.