2013年7月9日星期二

October 1980 Flashback: clubland The effects of the charm of fashion examines the V & A


       Boots and Shirt Pirate Adam Ant, badges for the landmark Rave Club Shoom and Katherine Hamnett slogan t-shirts front of the stage at the V & A exhibition at Club Catwalk, the London clubbing eighties investigated and how it affects contemporary fashion.

Claire Wilcox, curator of the exhibition, said it was to provide a different perspective on the divide over decades. "This is not about Dynasty," she said. "There is very little shoulder exposure. This is the eclectic fresher appearance in London."

The exhibition in the galleries of the Fashion Museum is divided into two sections, the gate on the ground floor and on the club floor. "I like shows that have given an element of discovery," Wilcox said. "You can go from day to night and come to a club." The low lighting - important in a museum, where archives should be stored under special conditions - has the added effect of providing after-dark atmosphere.

The exhibition, which was five years in the making, will run simultaneously for one month with David Bowie, show the V & A's most successful in terms of number of visitors. "Sometimes it's to put your finger up to the wind to see what's in the Zeitgeist," Wilcox said. "Bowie was a hero of the [1980] generation. This would be a great afternoon, both have to visit."

The following cases are immediate survival for people 40 years or older. It HAMNETT slogan T-shirts and colored engravings by Betty Jackson. Case, evening wear, looks straight out of Bonfire of the Vanities Cabinet Melanie Griffiths - a backless dress sequin Bruce Oldfield black and white Price taffeta cocktail dress asymmetrical sculptural Anthony in 1986.

As with the other, in the early eighties in the capital boasted a fertile club scene. Taboo nights dressed as Cha Chas sky and lightning, and a customer as Leigh Bowery clubheads, Princess Julia and Trojans were a great source of inspiration for designers who visits it. A quote from John Galliano, in a case that shows the designer first work of disgraced now simply reads: ". The club scene has led me"

Subcultures are explored familiar as New Romantic (See this pirate shirt and stagewear supported by Toyah Wilcox), Goth and Rave represented with Spring / Summer 1985 Collection Vivienne Westwood with this badge Shoom.

Then there are the more obscure, ripe for the discovery of a new generation of fashion students. Hard Times - a rockabilly look influenced by male studs and ripped jeans -. Appeared "in response to the new romantic profusely," said Wilcox A pair of jeans from Dylan Jones, editor of GQ magazine now available, is particularly shredded. Elsewhere High Camp shows the acceptability of gay culture. A dress of a man by Juliana Sissons 1982 is designed with a purple body with penis sheath. Cornelius Brady, who donated the design, he carried clubs, but the supermarket.

A foretaste of what these clubs were like coming to the climax of the show. In a dark room, playing a movie from stock footage of visual artist Jeffrey Hinton on 10 screens. It features images of designers Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier and milliner Stephen Jones in clubs as well as artists such as divine, Bowery and Boy George, all. For a number of contemporary dancefloor favorites Wilcox said his team still lost and when setting up the exhibition: "I find it to dance."


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