2013年9月27日星期五

Tom Ford : As the man who saved Gucci has created its own brand billion

Louis Vuitton surya "It's much , much, much harder than starting from scratch ," says Tom Ford to launch its own brand of luxury fashion . Fresh off a transatlantic flight, but still looking every part of the designer superstar, Ford is in its impeccable dark visor - and reverse costumes, with a blue tie and white shirt at the neck with a brooch necklace attached gold, through a radiant skin manicured stubble balanced. "I had no idea how difficult it would be , and I had all the advantages that you can have. " In fact, with an estimated population of over 200 million dollars ( £ 125 million ), but ahead of popularity in the world and valuable years of experience in the creative head of global brands, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent assets with an important step - even the legendary Ford has some of the same challenges of any other mode start-up faced faced . " There was a lot of me in Gucci and a lot of me in Yves Saint Laurent. However, there were also a part of ," he said. " At Gucci , I had a bamboo handle . Sold and I could not stick it . A few horses , I could stick it on something and it was Gucci or a red and green stripes. " Ford , 52 , arrived at Gucci in 1990 as a ready - to-wear designer for women . But things are not running well now . In 1993, Gucci has lost $ 22 million on $ 230 million in sales . Maurizio Gucci, grandson of the founder , had too many licenses the brand in everything from ashtrays to coffee cups. Then in 1994 Ford became creative director of the brand new rising CEO Domenico de Sole , who had the support of the new majority owner of Gucci , Investcorp , a Bahrain -based investment group. Delivered himself injected Ford brand with an intoxicating dose of sexy, cool glamor that has taken the fashion industry by storm. In 1999, Gucci was over 4 billion dollars and had attracted interest from some of the largest companies in the luxury industry titans . François Pinault, PPR (now Kering ) won the battle for the brand with the star and star designer . But their partnership was not to last . A shopping spree that Yves Saint Laurent, Boucheron and Stella McCartney stable Gucci was performed followed by a public and bitter separation means between Ford and PPR in 2004 , after disagreements over control of the company . "I was not sure what I would do after [that] , because , quite frankly, I was in shock . I was very depressed about it," Ford said . At the time , he told the press that he . No interest in returning to fashion and creativity, which could turn to other activities But that was then , this is now . Today , nearly ten years later , Ford sat in his private office at the headquarters of Tom Ford International ( TFI ) in Howick Place, near Victoria Station. It is a dark room, but perfectly informed , as a bar to a large five-star hotel. Louis Vuitton azur canvas An hour earlier, Ford had appeared about half the year off the plane from Los Angeles, where he spends . Jack , his son is 10 months old back to the ranch in Santa Fe , New Mexico, with Richard Buckley, his partner of 25 years. Ford is in London for only three days to compounds for its collection of women's clothes make 2014 spring / summer and listen to the first stand-alone Tom Ford store in London , which quietly opened on Sloane Street in July , followed by a Week London Festival sensational way. "At the beginning of the year 2014 , when we plan our business continue to meet , we will meet one billion [ per year ] Retail Tom Ford products," he says. " It's all the products at the same time . Eyewear , perfume , cosmetics , ready- to-wear men's and women A billion dollars of products with the brand Tom Ford to sell at retail. " This is an impressive number . How did he do that? The short answer is : a lot of hard work and a little help from his friends. In 2005, Ford announced two worldwide license agreements : with Marcolin for eyeglasses and Estee Lauder for beauty. While most companies start with luxury fashion house very expensive ready-to -wear, the Tom Ford brand is to launch products at cheaper prices , manages trusted partners and require little or investing any money to Ford himself , only his time , taste and sensitivity. " I realized that [ licensing ] would say , my very common name, [ so ] , that when I go back to the way would make it , decided my great name ," he said. Menswear , in partnership with Ermenegildo Zegna , followed soon after . then made ​​his long-awaited return in 2010 , Ford to womenswear . But the search for the right to sell space was a completely different challenge . "I wanted the first store in London ," he recalls. "I had to either Bond Street or Sloane Street and [ had ] no available properties. , If something comes up , I would get into a bidding war with LVMH, Richemont and Gucci Group . There was no way I could compete. " so Ford has set his sights on the New York market , opening a luxury boutique on Madison Avenue . Once a digital skeptics in recent years, the designer has become aware of how the Internet has revolutionized the industry . "I love black dresses , I think everyone should be a lot , but black dresses do not sell online because on the computer , they do not like something to read. Fashion has changed so much because of the internet , not only because of the way , it is reported , but more [ because ] as it is sold . " Ford recognizes the power of the Internet as a commercial vehicle and expects that its own online store will soon close the upper door for TFI world at its launch early next year. Mostly he came to this understanding through their own online behavior . "I live , I almost exclusively shop on the Internet ," he said. "I bought the car on the Internet. I watch TV, I do it all . I look my son in the same line , " refers to the application of camera baby monitor which is able to check his iPhone. He is optimistic about the future of his company and seems really excited about the prospects of the brand soon to billions of dollars. Louis Vuitton damier ebene canvas "The company is profitable, it turns and I do not have to sell pictures ," he joked , based on Andy Warhol self-portrait sold for $ 32.6 million in 2010 to help finance the expansion of the TFI . "It takes a lot of stress out of it. "

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